Sublimation Coating Information

INSTRUCTIONS for our “White Base Coat” or (MONSTER MILK) : Our white base coating is a very durable white titanium pigmented base coat that can handle extreme elements. When applying our white coating, simply use a sprayer, roller or brush to apply. Just make sure your coat is very smooth and even. (To help you with that, we have created our White Base Coat to be very thin, so you may need to apply a few coats) After coating, let cure for a minimum of 24 hrs, then sand very lightly with 220 grit sand paper to knock off any blips, then wipe clean. Now you can apply the clear polyester sublimation coating (Monster Coat). To clean up Monster Milk just use soap and water.

INSTRUCTIONS for “Sublimation Coating” or (MONSTER COAT): When applying (“Monster Coat” clear polyester sublimation coating) to your surface, brush on a very thin coat and let set for about 60 seconds, then smooth out evenly with a dry brush. Let the first coat set for about 30 minutes and repeat. After you have coated your object twice, let set for 4 hours. After “Monster Coat” cures for 24hrs, you can then go ahead and apply your sublimation heat transfer. We find for wood transfers that 60 seconds at medium pressure works great. We also found for ceramics and stone that 3 minutes at medium pressure works great. Everyone’s equipment is different, so play around a little until you find the right heat and pressure. (We have one customer who likes to transfer onto “Monster Coat” using 400 degrees at 4 minutes with feather light pressure). So experiment and see what you come up with. We ask that you practice with our coating on small items to get the right set up for your equipment. PLEASE TEST ON SAMPLES FIRST! To clean up Monster Coat just use soap and water.

Trouble shooting: >If the paper sticks to your object when you transfer onto the your substrate, your coating is too thick or your heat and or pressure is to high on your heat press. If this happens, just wash the paper off with water. And make sure the rest of your substrates are coated with no more than 2 very thin coats, that is all you need. >If you are going to use wood make sure that you only use clear wood, or wood with no knots and or sap pits. To find out if the wood you want to use is good, put a piece of regular paper on it and press it at 400f with medium pressure for 1 minute. If you can take the paper right off the wood when done without any sap sticking to it then you have clear wood. Once you know your wood is good go ahead and follow the directions for applying our coating. >We ask that you practice with our coating on small items to get the right set up for your equipment.

Ventilation: >There is no need for any kind of special ventilation. Our coatings are NON HAZARDOUS and the fumes are about as strong as Elmer’s Glue. I have literally coated substrates sitting at my kitchen table (Shawn Goodyear).

Dust Free: >Our coatings dry quickly which takes a big worry out of keeping dust particles from sticking to your coating. Just make sure you are coating your substrate in a fairly clean area, laying newspapers down first works real well. As long as you keep the area you are in fairly clean your coating will be fine.

Clean Up: >To clean up either our Sublimation Coating or our White Base Coating, just scrub brushes and or rollers with soap and water. I f you have a sprayer you can run water through it and that should rinse it right out. Our coatings are water clean up while still in liquid form, but after they have cured they are almost impossible to get off. So please make sure if you spill any coatings or get any on something you didn’t mean to, clean it up right away.

Our Coatings Can Go on: >Wood, Bisque Ceramics, Stone, Clay, Fiberglass, Leather, Pottery, etc.

Our Coating creates its own glaze and will only work on raw substrates (THIS IS IMPORTANT)

                       Monster Coat goes on white and dries perfectly clear.